Naughty Dog's Day

Dog Park Manners: Time to Go Home!

Recently my daycare dogs were getting a little rambunctious in the yard.  Ripping around, barking, generally out of control.  I gave a whistle, had everybody come to me, sit, stay for a minute, passed out some small treats, then let them go again.  General rowdiness was reduced when they went back to playing, and it was yet one more lesson that when I call, you have to come, no matter what you're doing.  The great news, though, is that in a minute, you'll be able to go back to what you were doing!  That's why, when I ask, they come to me.  Because they just don't know if it's going to be a short break in play (maybe with a little treat), or something else.  Odds are in their favor that it'll be a treat, so they comply.

For many reasons, this is an important thing to do with your dog if you choose to take him to a dog park to burn off some of that pent up energy. Think about it.  Snoopy's out there playing with the other dogs, having the time of his life.  You've been there for an hour, and you want to go home, make dinner, and sit down for some R & R.  So you call Snoopy, who acts like he's never heard the word.  Finally, you end up chasing Snoopy around the park for half an hour, feeling like an idiot when you snatch for Snoopy and he dances out of your way, maybe enlisting the aid of other dog park "parents", who've been there, done that.  Finally you corner Snoopy, snap on the lead, and march him to the car, wondering why you thought coming to the park was ever a good idea in the first place.

Amazingly, this is really a problem that's pretty easy to correct.  Before you go to the park, arm yourself with a couple of things:  some treats to reward Snoopy for coming when you call, and either an extra special treat, or a kong with some peanut butter in it, for the ride home.  When you get to the park, let Snoopy get going, then call him to come.  Go to him, if you have to, and cheerfully entice him to come to you.  Take hold of his collar (this is important, so he doesn't get into the habit of running up, grabbing the treat, and taking off), and give him the treat, with lots of praise.  Then let him go.  Do this a couple of times before you finally snap on the lead, tell him what a stellar dog he is, and take him to the car.  When you get there - Oh Joy! - there's an extra special tasty treat waiting, a bit of a fair trade to take the edge off of having to leave the greatest dog place on earth!

Do this every time you go to the park, even after Snoopy races to you with a happy look on his face when you call.  We want to keep this good behavior, so reward it.  It lets him know in no uncertain terms that you are happy with him.  That you think he's the greatest dog ever.  And, the best part, it makes all the other owner's who are still making fools of themselves chasing after their dog just a little bit jealous of your incredible dog!

Canine Isolation Anxiety & Separation Anxiety

Separation Anxiety.  If I hear those words one more time, I swear, I'm gonna lose my mind. At least once a week someone tells me their dog has separation anxiety.  It's become the catchall phrase for unusual, usually destructive behavior when the owner is not present.  Generally the people who tell me this are bright and competent, and have raised their dog with love and care.  They would go to the ends of the earth to make their dog happy.  This does not usually set the stage for separation anxiety. True separation anxiety is a rare occurrence and usually the result of a dog suffering trauma (someone breaks in, a fire, or other extreme situation) while left alone, or coming from a very abusive situation. But it's easy to say, "separation anxiety".  It rolls off the tongue, and makes the problem behavior the dog's fault.  Excellent.  Now you just need someone to fix it, or maybe some pills to pop down your dog every morning.

OK, everybody.  Here's what I have to say.  Most likely what your dog is really suffering from is terminal boredom (think "Ferris Bueller's Day Off")  or maybe, just maybe, isolation anxiety. Dogs are pack animals.  They need social interaction as much as we humans do.  If your dog spends day after day waiting for you while you're at work, he's lonely.  It's fine that you leave your dog and go to work.  We all have real lives. But you have to be willing to put in the effort to counteract that when you are home, or find another way to satisfy your dog's need to party a little with others.  Whether boredom or isolation anxiety, the fact is, no matter how much you love your dog, these are on you!  Sorry, but it's true.  Think about your routine.  How much exercise is that bright, bubbly, happy dog of yours actually getting?  When you picked out that lab, aussie, Jack Russell, or, heaven forbid, border collie, did you really think about how much exercise it would require? Did you think about what your dog was bred to do, what activity would be calling to him right down to his very last cell and wonder if you could find a way to fulfill that need?  Because that cushy life your dog is leading, while comfortable, isn't really very fulfilling. Dogs are amazingly like humans in that respect.  Sure we love our down time, but we don't want all of our time to be down time.  What fun would that be, really? Too many of our very lucky puppies live exactly that life. 

If your dog is suffering from what you are sure is separation anxiety, it's time to implement a new schedule to test your theory.  A tired dog is a happy dog.  For the next couple of weeks, you need to make the effort to make your dog happily tired (which doesn't include hours on a treadmill.  What fun is that?).  But, lucky you, these days, the options are pretty much endless. If your dog is a sociable type, there are dog parks and daycare. I'd go every other day, at least, for a couple of weeks. If you're going to the dog park, plan on spending at least an hour, and during that time, make sure you are watching your dog.  This isn't the time to chat with other dog people, it's the time to make sure your dog is not getting into a bad situation.  If you take your dog to daycare try to have him spend the whole day, if you can't, at least go for a half day. Maybe neither of those options work for you and/or your dog.Enroll your little reprobate in a training class. Hire a dog walker.  Find a neighborhood kid to stand in the backyard and throw the ball for an hour.  Get up an hour earlier (I know, I know.  But if I can do it, so can you!) and take your dog for a nice long, brisk walk.  Play with him a little.  Fill his mind up and go to work leaving him feeling loved.  Keep a log of your dog's behavior, if you want, but I bet you'll see an improvement.

So, if your dog pooped right in the middle of the brand new, very expensive, cream colored, imported from Italy duvet when you went to the store, destroyed your clothes or furniture, shredded your shoes, or even jumped out a window, it's probably not separation anxiety.  It's probably your dog saying "Thank goodness he's gone, now I can really get some exercise!"

Been a Long Time

My poor blog, hanging out in cyberspace gathering dust while my life goes crazy around it!  Well, luckily things have now settled down and I will be writing regularly again.

Teddi, my foster Leonberger is still here, and still waiting for just the right home.  While still somewhat shy, she has progressed remarkably quickly, and is a much happier dog now.  I'm hoping that she will soon have a family of her very own.

The daycare has been hopping with lots of new dogs coming in,  and I've also been busy baking treats and putting together a new line of canine skin care products.

Now that I'm back, I hope you will be, too. 

The Evolution of Training Methods

When I first started training dogs back in the dark ages, one of the most popular, well known trainers advocated such things as "hanging" dogs (lifting their front feet off the ground and letting them dangle from their choke chain, the de rigueur training collar at that time), and brutal "corrections", yanking the dog off its feet to correct it for pulling.  This was the trainer for the Disney movies.  Eee gads.  One day I found a book by Martha Covington Thorne, who long ago met her beloved dogs at the bridge.  Suddenly I felt like I was doing things correctly when I tried to make my dogs happy while working with them.  Then came Carol Lea Benjamin, Barbara Woodhouse, Brian Kilcommons, Karen Pryor, and many others.  To this day, Carol Lea Benjamin, is, to me, the epitome of a dog trainer.  More about that later.

Modern dog training, for the most part, is all about making your dog happy.  There are, of course, still some of the old-time jerk, twist, and tie them in knots type out there, so if you're looking for a trainer, make sure you observe them in action prior to either signing up for a class or placing your pet in their hands.

There are so many methods for training dogs:  "NILIF" training, where nothing in life is free, advocates giving no attention or treats without making your dog work for it (sit, stay, come, or whatever).  Clicker training (operant conditioning and behavioral modification are other names for this method) uses a clicker to give your dog a marker, a sound that tells your dog "you did that just right!".  The click is a promise to your dog.  Once your dog knows a behavior, you don't t have to click every time, and can eventually phase the click out completely, but if you click, you have to treat. Teaching how to clicker train would take this whole post, or more.  It's elegant, easy (once you know how to do it), and effective.  There are "positive only" methods where bad behavior is ignored and good behavior is rewarded.  There are pack driven, wear your dog out and he'll be too tired to misbehave methods.  There's "natural training" which emulates real life - sometimes you're good, sometimes you're bad, and you're "rewarded" accordingly.  This is the style of Carol Lea Benjamin, Brian Kilcommons, Barbara Woodhouse, and other popular trainers. It's a common sense approach which most closely emulates the way we humans interact with each other.

I'm what "pure" clicker trainers would disparagingly call a "cross-over" trainer, or "a trainer with a clicker".  I've been training a long time, and I just don't think a single training method best fits every situation.  I use all the above methods, other than the old-time, heavy handed approach, depending on the dog and what behavior(s) I'm working on.    For Bruce, who needs to learn a specific set of behaviors for an employee training video, I've been doing a lot of clicker work.   It's the most expedient method of getting him from point A to point B in this situation. In general, I follow a more natural training approach.  The way I see it, in real life, whether you're human, wolf, or dog, there are limits that need to be respected.  If I've walked, played with, fed, and watered my dog.  Made sure he's had a fulfilling day, and he still insists on sitting in the doorway, chewing the molding, he's going to go into his crate for 15-20 minutes.   If he's heading down the bad-dog road, he'll spend some time learning that NILIF.  When I want him to learn how to turn on a light, I'll probably teach him to "target", and use a clicker.

The bottom line of all this is that while there is no one right way to train a dog, there's definitely a wrong way.  Your dog is your buddy, your pal, your friend.  She depends on you for so many things, not the least of which are to keep her safe and fulfilled. Dog's love to have a job, overcome obstacles, and succeed.  Learning basic commands is a good way to start.  So find a trainer you like and trust.  Someone your dog likes as well, although this may take a little time, since good trainer's are, by nature, "alpha", and tend to radiate that in their bearing around dogs.  Find someone who is kind, but firm, and hasn't lost their joy in dogs.  This may not be easy.  You may need to talk to several trainers.  If possible, set up a private lesson before you commit yourself to a 6 or 8 week class.  It's worth the effort.  You'll be happy, your dog will be happy, and soon, with a little work, you'll have your very own socially acceptable dog.   

 

Our Multilingual Dogs

Our dogs are far more amazing than we frequently realize.  If we could read them just half as well as they read us, training would be so much easier! 

First, of course, they can hear us.  But for a dog, hearing is just a very small part of the dialogue.  Their noses put ours to shame. Picture a postage stamp sitting on a bandana.  That's the difference in the area a person's olfactory cells cover (the stamp) compared to the area a dog's cover (the bandana).  An experiment conducted by researchers at Duke University found that a fox terrier, selected at random from a group,  could, after three weeks, detect the scent of a fingerprint on a glass slide when compared to four unused slides.  When the researchers placed the slides outside, exposed to rain, wind, and dust, the dog was still able to pick out the slide with the fingerprint after it weathered for 24 hours.  Our dogs smell everywhere we've been, and every emotion we feel.  That's pretty amazing.

Then there's body language.  Not only do dogs communicate amongst themselves in incredibly subtle ways, they learn at an early age the body language of humans.  Whatever you're feeling is expressed in the way you move and hold your body.  And your dog knows exactly what's going on in that head of yours.

And that's where we, as dog lover's, often fail, and why I think some people just seem to have a natural knack for training dogs.  When you get right down to the basics of training dogs, it's pretty cut and dried.  One of my biggest challenges in training people to train their dogs is in getting them to put their whole body into it. Everybody seems to know that you should praise your dog in a happy voice.  But we're not fooling our dogs, they really couldn't care less about a squeaky voiced sound of approval, although for many of our dogs, that's as good as it gets.  I've also had people who only wanted to use "positive methods" to train their dog tell me that when their dog does something wrong, they cross their arms and turn their back.  Wow.  That's a pretty big slap in the face to a dog, and not what I would call only using positive methods. Not that I think there's anything wrong with doing that, I find it very effective for jumping and certain other problem behaviors, I just think it's interesting that someone who feels saying "bad dog" is wrong doesn't look at this as a "punishment", when, in my opinion, most dogs will take a "bad dog" over a turned back any day of the week.

So don't leave your dog feeling unfulfilled and always hoping for more.  When you call her and she comes to you, make happy eye contact, smile,  open your arms wide, and  tell her how wonderful she is in your best "good girl" voice.  Let your praise radiate from your whole body.   If she finally sat or stayed or downed the first time you asked, make it a party.  Conversely, if you've fought to get compliance from a dog who knows exactly what you're asking for and just doesn't feel like it, you still need that whole body praise, even if it comes from your victory in winning the battle, but minimize it, and save the horns and confetti for the really good behavior.  If your dog is an excitable sort, especially if you're working on stays, you'll have to tone this down, of course, but still, your dog will know whether you really care about that perfect sit or not, so don't her down, make your praise come from the heart.   

26 Words Your Dog Should Know: 1) Name & 2) Wait

You'd think the first would be a given.  Doesn't every dog know it's name?  Surprisingly, no.  Or at least they don't admit it anymore.  Lets face it, it's easy to wear out your dog's name.  If you're one of those people whose conversations with their dog's go something like this:  "Buddy.  BBuudddyyy.  Hey, Buddy.  Buddy, come, Buddy, come here right now!", you've probably got a dog with a worn out name.  What do you do?  Well, you try to fix it.  Maybe you can't, and though this sounds extreme, if you go through the steps below and your dog still doesn't respond, it's time for a new name, at least around the house.  I wouldn't change it on vet records, etc., and if someone asks you how "Buddy" is, and you've changed his name to Rex, you can just smile and say "He's great".

First things first.  Enough already.  It's time to be quiet.  For a couple of days, do everything you can to avoid using your dog's name.  As a matter of fact, going for a day or two, not talking at all to your dog will get him wondering what's up and starting to look to you for answers.  This is a very good thing.  This doesn't mean you ignore your dog, give him lots of attention, take him for his walks.  Just be quiet about it. 

After a couple of days, say his name, and follow it immediately with a treat.  Don't use his name for anything but treat time.  And don't give him any treats without saying his name.  Use a small treat, so you can repeat this 10 or 15 times.  If you say "Buddy" and your dog looks up at you, you've achieved your goal.  He's admitting he knows his name. 

Now it's time to start working.  This part is all on you.  You say "Buddy (Buddy looks at you, now you know you have his attention), Sit".  If he doesn't comply, you go to him and physically help him sit (gently), repeating the command.  You should never use a command more than once without going to your dog to make him comply. Don't give your dog a command unless you have his attention.  This is a surefire way to wear out his name.

If you have just adopted a dog, I always advise changing the name, and doing it as soon as possible.  Your dog is in a new home, with new expectations.  Additionally, if your dog had it rough in the old home, the current name may not be associated with good things.  Dogs learn a name change quickly.  Just follow the directions above.  That way you know you're starting fresh.

Once your dog knows it's name, introduce "Watch".   This is an excellent command all dogs should know, since it can bring a dog who's intently focused elsewhere back to you.  Since my dog's are good about responding to their name, I generally use the Watch command when I'm introducing a new behavior I want them to learn.  Teach your dog this command by saying his name.  When he turns, hold a treat or toy up by your face, say "Watch", or "Watch Me".  When you make eye contact smile and say "Good dog!!".  Then give your dog the treat or toss the toy as a reward.  As your dog shows you he's learned the command by responding every time, gradually drop the physical reward and simply tell him he's good.  If you're walking your dog and he sees another dog or squirrel, use his name and the watch command to break the spell.  Once he's looking at you, give another command, such as "Let's go", and walk away.  Watch is a bridge you give your dog to let him know something is up and he better be prepared.   

Walking the Dogs

My daycare dogs go for a walk 3 times a day, and I gotta tell you, some walks are just more fun than others.  This is largely dependent on the weather (everybody, please, I'm begging you...shovel your sidewalks!), and what dog's I have here for the day.  Today was cold, but dry.  Just the kind of weather that revs all the dogs up.  And I had Whimsy, Olive, Bruce, Zachary, and Hannah.  All under a year old, except Hannah, who's a year and a half, and all between 35 and 70 lbs.  Having this many boisterous dogs in hand at one time makes for some interesting moments.  Whimsy or Olive grabbing a stick, then wrestling each other for it.  Zachary bounding along, trying to interest someone, anyone, in saying "Hi!" as we pass.  Hannah focused on the trees, looking for squirrels.  And handsome Bruce, the rock star, trotting along beside me, loose leash,  like teacher's pet.  When I can spare a hand to pat him on the head I'm rewarded with a big tail wag and some bouncy steps. 

One of our favorite walks is through downtown Ann Arbor.  There are low walls to hop up on and walk along, lots of people to greet, the scent of asian, italian, and greek cuisine, and, best of all, alleys.  All the dogs pause, noses lifted, when we pass by the alley that runs between Liberty and Williams.  Eyeing each other, they frequently try to make a break and follow their noses to the canine nirvana of day old alley pate.  We weave, wobble, and bounce our way along, and it generally sounds something like this:  "Whimsy! Olive! Girls, stop that!  Hannah, honey, quit pulling.  Zach, stay on this side, don't say "Hi".  Good boy, Bruce!".  Glances our way range from amused to horrified.  One day as we passed by the downtown post office there was a dog tied up to the railing.  I gave it a quick "hello" as we passed.  We hadn't made it to the end of the block when a guy ran up to me, and in all seriousness said "Hey!  You forgot one!".  He didn't look quite convinced when I explained it wasn't "mine".

The dogs love their outings, and for the most part, so do I.  Ann Arbor is a great town to walk around, and I love my little daycare buddies.  But I'm no saint.  By the time we're heading down the last block toward home, I'm more than ready to take everybody's leash off, fill up the water bowls, and pass out treats.  It's just about this time that, as I have all the dog's waiting to cross the street ("wait" is the one thing they all do to perfection) someone walks by and says "Wow, what good dogs!  Wish my dog behaved like that!".  And I think, "Oh, you little angels!". 

Crate Training

Whether you realize it or not, crates are a dog’s (and dog owner’s) best friend.  A crate gives your dog a place to call his own.  A quiet place to recharge his battery, chew a bone, or get some relief from your brother’s rowdy kids.  It keeps him safe when you’re not around and speeds the housebreaking process.  If he ever goes to the groomer or needs to spend the day with his veterinarian, having your dog already crate trained will reduce his stress tremendously.  If you find yourself shuddering and thinking “I could never put MY dog in a cage”, think again.  Every dog yearns for a place to call his own.  And, unless your dog is the size of a small horse (as mine are), a crate is easy enough to move around, so it can be in your bedroom at night, and the living area of your house during the day.  A crate also makes traveling with your dog almost effortless, as he always has “his place” whether you’re staying in a hotel or visiting your in-laws. 

  If you have an older dog, maybe one who’s never been completely housebroken or is destroying the house when left alone, crate training will be worth the extra effort it takes.

  Whether you choose a wire crate or plastic type is up to you.  Keep it clean, make it cozy with a blanket and some chew toys (because of the choking hazard, dogs and rawhide bones should never be left alone together).  Dogs are pack animals.  They thrive best when they are close to you. If at all possible move the crate to your bedroom at night. So now that you have your crate ready, gently but firmly place your dog inside with a kind word and a treat, close both the door and your ears to the soulful cries and plaintive whining and pawing.   Just like your first day at camp, he feels like he’s lost everything he previously held dear.  A little lost sleep won’t kill you, and every night will be a little better.  When your puppy cries, take him outside, praise him if he relieves himself, and put him back in his crate.  Three a.m. isn't the time for playing, treats, or snuggles, so be quiet and matter-of-fact.  Don’t take him to bed with you!  Doing this once will make it a habit.  We’ll discuss dogs in bed at a later time.  If you’re training an older dog, and you know he doesn’t need to go outside, ignore his pleas.  The less they’re rewarded, the sooner they’ll disappear. 

  During the day, the crate is where your dog should be if you’re away from the house or unable to keep an eye on your little bundle of joy.  But you do have to crate fairly.  Putting a naughty puppy who has been told to quit chewing grandma’s oriental rug three times into his crate to think things over for 15 or 20 minutes is fair. It may not make him happy, but a well loved and reared puppy understands.  Crating your dog while you’re at work is fair, especially if you have someone come by during the day to give him a potty break. Leaving your dog for long periods of time, bored, uncomfortable (if he needs to go out) and lonely, isn’t fair.  Don’t use the crate as a handy babysitter because you had a long day at work and don’t feel like dealing with your dog’s needs. Your dog’s crate is a tool, not a prison.

  Keep the door open and toss an occasional treat inside when your dog is on free time.  When you bring a new toy home, toss it in the crate for him to check out.  Once your dog is accustomed to his crate, you’ll both wonder how you ever lived without it.

Veterinary Visits

Whether it's a routine visit or something more urgent, every dog needs to visit the vet at certain times in it's life.  You can make this visit easier on everyone if you follow a few guidelines, and teach your dog what will be expected.

• You'd think this would be a given, but at a clinic where I recently worked, seeming bright people would actually bring their dogs in off-leash.  OK, here's a news flash.  Your dog may love every dog it meets.  Not every dog does.  Luckily, if you're in a vet clinic and your dog is attacked due to your own lack of common sense, emergency help couldn't be closer!  Not only that, but many dogs at a clinic are there because they're sick.  Do you really want your dog sniffing noses or other anatomy with a sick dog?
• Speaking of leashes, leave the flexi-lead at home.  This is not the place for them.  Bring your dog into the clinic on a standard 5' or 6' leash.  If someone other than you needs to restrain your dog, a regular leash is much easier to handle, and you don't need the length a flexi-lead offers in a clinic setting.
• And, of course, your dog will have a collar on.  Make sure it's a flat buckle collar, martingale, or head collar.  Leave the choke collars and, especially, pinch collars, at home.  I have nothing against pinch collars, to be honest I feel they're kinder than choke collars, but they make it very hard and uncomfortable to restrain a dog.  So be kind to your clinic's staff, and put your dog in an appropriate collar.
• If your dog is sick with a possibly communicable disease, leave it in the car (unless it's hot, in which case call from the car to let the clinic know you're there, or leave the car running with the AC on) while you go in and notify them of your arrival.  Many diseases are spread by air or direct contact.  Minimize the danger to other dogs by keeping your dog quarantined until the doctor is ready for it.
• Veterinary staff all appreciate the fact that not all dogs understand that they're there to help them.  If your dog has a tendency to get aggressive during visits, by all means - let the staff know before  they handle your dog.  They aren't going to dislike your dog because she dislikes them, but it makes it safer for all concerned.  If your dog only has issues with one area on its body, such as nails or ears, again, let the clinic staff know ahead of time.
• Unless you absolutely have to bring them, leave the kids at home.  It's not that we don't love them!  Not all dogs, though, are accustomed to kids.  Not all dogs feel very well and want to be greeted by a small, happy human.  Some dogs are in pain.  If you do bring your kids, talk to them ahead of time, give them rules:  stay by me, don't approach the other pets, no yelling.  The goal isn't to scare them, it's to make them understand that they need to respect a pet who may be nervous or ill, and treat it in an appropriate way.
• How to terrify a cat in one easy lesson:  While it's away from home, sitting in a small box at it's owner's feet, possibly not feeling well, let your dog walk up and sniff, or, heaven forbid, nose the crate, while you smile and tell the owner "My dog just loves cats."  Even if you hate cats, never allow this to happen!
• Teach your dog to "stand", and accustom it to having its body examined.  Pick up and play with his feet, look in his ears, hold his muzzle gently and look at his eyes.
• If your dog is out and about, going for walks, visiting the dog park, bring a fecal sample in regularly.  Internal parasites are easy to pick up, not so easy to get rid of.  It's not expensive to have a fecal check done, and is very important in keeping your dog at the peak of health.  And, by the way, only a small sample is needed.  An amount that will fit in a bottle cap is adequate!
• When you're gushing to the doctor about how wonderful he/she is, remember the rest of the staff:  the receptionist who cheerfully handles your calls and questions (and has control over the "hold" button), the kennel staff who keeps the clinic sparkling clean and also helps keep your pet clean and comfy, and the technician and/or assistant, who routinely reach into cages to treat dogs who are frequently less than cooperative, draw the blood and gather other samples, and spend the most "hands-on" time (including dishing out the love and attention your away-from-home pet needs).

Following these simple guidelines will make your vet clinic love having you and your dog as clients, and give them the incentive to go that extra mile when you need it.  It will also make your dog, and the other pets who are there for treatment, safe and comfortable. 

26 Words Every Dog Needs to Know

Every dog needs a vocabulary.  It enriches both of your lives, and while it doesn't need to be huge, you'd be amazed at how many words your dog can learn to understand.  These are words I use every day with both my own dogs and the dogs who come for daycare.  If your own dog knows these words, moving her around, whether it's letting visitors in the door, loading her up in the car, or spending time in a sidewalk cafe on Main St. with your best friend at your feet, will not only be easy, it will insure your dog will have a warm welcome just about anywhere, because your dog is socially acceptable.  She has manners.  What a joy!

Here's my list...how many does your dog already know? 

1. Name - A given.  To do any training at all, your dog needs to know its name.
2. Watch me - An easy way to say "Hey, I'm over here, quit looking at that cute sheepdog across the street and pay attention!"
3. Sit - Probably the most used word in any dog's vocabulary.
4. Down - A little harder than sit, but necessary to keep your dog comfortable if you're going to be stationary for any length of time (like when you're at that sidewalk cafe). 
5. Stand - Excellent word to use when brushing, bathing, or being examined by the vet.
6. Stay -  Whether in a sit, down, or stand, stay means you remain in that place until I tell you to move.  So be fair.  Long stays should be done in the down position.
7. OK - A release word that means "That's it, you're done"
8. Come - Pretty self-explanatory, at least to us.  A good solid recall is actually, especially for some breeds, very difficult to teach.
9. Wait - A less formal command than "Stay", it just means you stop here until I say OK.
10. Heel - A command every city dog should know for navigating through crowds.  Combine it with the "stand" to negate the sit on yucky days.
11. Let's go - Lets your dog know that he's about to be on the move.  More civilized than a yank on the leash.
12. Take it - A little hard to teach, but a great command.  Once your dog knows it, he can help you in all sorts of ways.
13. Give - Now it's time to give me the object I had you take.
14. Leave it - Don't you dare pick up that post-game pizza pate, left so temptingly on the sidewalk!
15. Jump/up/over - Once your dog knows this, you'll use it in all kinds of ways.  Handy for puddles if you have a dainty dog, helpful for getting in and out of a vehicle.
16. Off - Once they're up, at some point you're going to want them "off"
17. Speak - Not only is it fun for your dog, it can help extinguish annoying barking.  Put it on a hand signal, and you've got an instant watchdog when you hear a stranger at the door!
18. Hush/quiet - You barked, I looked.  Everything is fine, it's time to stop.
19. Back - Trying to get into the house with a load of groceries or laundry with a happy dog waiting to greet you?  Teach her to back up!
20. Not there - We've already covered this one, check the archives.
21. Hurry up - It's raining, and I don't want to be out here all night.  Do your business and let's go inside!
22. Crate/kennel/house - All dogs should have a crate, we'll cover all the reasons in a later column.  And they should go into it without an argument when you give them the command!
23. Go lie down - You've been fed, walked, played with, and loved on.  I need a break.  It's time for you to "go lie down".  You can also use "Go to bed", but what if you're away from home, and the bed's not there?  With this command your dog will follow the direction you're pointing, and go there to lie down.
24. Dinner - Give your dog something to look forward to.  Anticipation always makes it finer!
25. Treat/cookie/biscuit - A great way to get a loose dog to come, and another way to give your dog a word that lets him anticipate something tasty!
26. And, of course, "Good Boy or Girl!!! - Dogs read body language far better than we do.  Telling your dog it's good involves your whole body - a smile on your face, a happy tone of voice, and your posture say it all.

So, maybe your dog does none of these yet.  Don't despair!  Keep checking back, at least once a week we'll be covering training methods for all of these commands.