Thank you for visiting my blog.
I love feedback, so please feel free to comment, whether you agree with me or not. If you have a question about your dog - care, feeding, training, problems... please feel free to e-mail me . I'll help you out if I can.
OK people, in the first place, it's not "vetinarian", it's not "veternarian". It's vet-er-in-ar-ian. Yes, 6 syllables. Actually it pretty much rolls off the tongue when said correctly. And if you've been mispronouncing it, don't worry. I've worked for vets who called themselves both of the above! Now that you know how to say the word, what makes a really good vet?
I've taken my pets to a lot of veterinarians over the years. Some were fabulous. It was as if they had a sixth sense that allowed them to zoom right in on whatever the problem was. Many were good, in a pedestrian sort of way. They got through their days diagnosing and treating, didn't make many mistakes, but they lacked that spark that separates the true stars from the rest of the bunch. Some were bad, a few, luckily a very few, were just plain incompetent.
Many people are surprised to learn that most vets aren't "dog people" (those that show, train, and sometimes live with large numbers of dogs. Those that "get" what makes a dog a dog and realize they aren't little people in fur coats). Most grew up with family pets, liked them, and decided to go into veterinary medicine. Some don't even have pets. Some like cats; dogs, not so much. Last summer, I had a client with a new rescue dog who had started obsessively eating grass. I felt it was behavioral, but before we started a modification program, I wanted to make sure there wasn't a physical reason that needed to be addressed. So, off they went to their neighborhood vet, a cat person with modest experience in practicing veterinary medicine. His solution? Anti-anxiety drugs. The reason? He doesn't really know much about dog behavior, and that was the only solution he had. Does that make him a bad or incompetent vet? Not necessarily. Just an inexperienced one. One you might not want to ask questions of regarding dog behavior because he's not really going to know the answer, he's going to punt, and that's not acceptable.
So when it comes to picking your vet and mining them for information regarding dog behavior, I can give you a few pointers:
I hope this helps you in your quest for finding the very best care for your dog. I would love to hear about your experiences or help you with individual behavior problems, just drop me an e-mail at: amys@www.naughtydogcafe.com
Bloat is ALWAYS a medical emergency. I cannot stress this enough! If you notice any of these signs in your dog, don't wait - load her up and head to the vet. Maybe it will be a wasted trip, but the outcome of untreated bloat will almost always be death, so don't hesitate.
Bloat can come on at any time, and it generally comes on quickly. Some of the signs are:
If your dog is showing any of these symptoms, it's time for a trip to the vet. NOW. Don't wait around to see if she improves.
Be proactive. Get to know your dog in a healthy state. Get down on the floor and listen to her normal stomach noises (she won't care, it'll just make her feel loved), lift her lip and look at her gums. Put your hand on her chest and feel her heart beat so you know what is normal. Feel her abdominal area before and after a meal so you know how it should feel.
I always keep simethicone tablets (Gas-X or Phazyme are two common brands) on hand, since I have dogs who are at risk for bloat. It helps break down large gas bubbles in the stomach and can sometimes prevent a bloat if given early enough. It has a very wide margin of safety, meaning you can give your dog a large amount without causing problems. Talk to your vet about its usage and keep it on hand.
Many people with bloat prone dogs keep a "tubing kit" on hand. This is a block of wood with a hole drilled through the middle, tubes of a couple different sizes, and tape. The block of wood is placed in the dog's mouth and held in place with tape, the tube is passed through the hole in the block of wood and into the dog's stomach. I feel that in most cases you will waste valuable time trying to tube your dog yourself. Your dog can die from bloat in under an hour. Your vet can give you more information and the necessary training if you live far away from the closest clinic and have a breed susceptible to bloat. Otherwise it's best to just load up and go.
Hopefully you and your dog will never have to go through this traumatic experience. But forewarned is forearmed. Knowing the signs and being prepared are the best ways to keep your dog safe from this horrific killer.
Bailey was one of my favorite cocker's. A black and white parti-color, she was a gem of a dog. She belonged to our tenants, who lived in our upstairs apartment, and I would talk to her from the yard as she stood watching me from a window, wiggling her little nub of a tail with great energy. In the morning, she would sit on the front porch steps with me, soaking up the sun and "helping" me read the newspaper. Her owner's took her running, fed her excellent food. Made sure she was groomed and played with every day. They even picked up her poop when they walked her. Bailey led a fabulous life. Right up until the morning her owner's awoke to find their beloved girl dead at the foot of their stairs. She had died a horrible death while they were sleeping. A necropsy gave the results. She had been killed by GDV - Gastric Dilatation - Volvulus. Commonly known as bloat.
Bloat is one of those unexpected killers, a train wreck in your dog's gut. Bloat occurs when food, fluid, air, and/or foam accumulate in the dog's stomach, stretching it far beyond its' normal size. For reasons not fully understood, this may cause the stomach to rotate and twist, cutting off both the blood supply and any possible "exits" for gas or food. It is incredibly painful, and is always a medical emergency.
The following uncontrollable factors contribute to an increased risk of bloat:
The following bloat increasing factors are controllable. Check to make sure you are not inadvertently increasing the chances that your best friend will suffer this horrible affliction:
These days, when there is a wealth of high quality kibbles on the market, there is no need to feed one which will actually increase the chances that your dog will suffer an extremely painful and possibly fatal medical emergency. So check your food, and, if necessary, change brands. Don't feed your dog from a raised dish unless medically necessary. And read Bloat, part 2, to learn what the signs of bloat are, and what you should do if you think your dog might possibly be bloating, because no matter how diligent your are, there is always the chance that your dog will suffer this problem.
Involves Pedigree, Country Acres,Members Mark, Retriever, Ol' Roy,
Special Kitty, Paws & Claws, Wegman's, Pet Pride, PMI Nutrition, Red
Flannel, Natural, Doggy Bag.
www.petcare.mars.com
Mars Petcare US Issues Voluntary Recall of Everson, PA Plant Dry Pet
Food Product due to Potential Salmonella Contamination
Contact:
Debra Fair
Public Relations Manager — Central Marketing
MARS PETCARE US
(973) 691-3536
For Immediate Release
Mars Petcare US Announces Nationwide Voluntary Recall
Franklin, Tennessee (September 12, 2008)—Today, Mars Petcare US
announced a voluntary recall of products manufactured at its Everson,
Pennsylvania facility. The pet food is being voluntarily recalled
because of potential contamination with Salmonella serotype
Schwarzengrund. This voluntary recall only affects the United States.
Salmonella can cause serious infections in dogs and cats, and, if
there is cross contamination caused by handling of the pet food, in
people as well, especially children, the aged, and people with
compromised immune systems. Healthy people potentially infected with
Salmonella should monitor themselves for some or all of the following
symptoms: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, abdominal
cramping and fever. On rare occasions, Salmonella can result in more
serious ailments, including arterial infections, endocarditis,
arthritis, muscle pain, eye irritation, and urinary tract symptoms.
Consumers exhibiting these signs after having contact with this
product should contact their healthcare providers.
Pets with Salmonella infections may be lethargic and have diarrhea or
bloody diarrhea, fever, and vomiting. Some pets will have only
decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. Animals can be carriers
with no visible symptoms and can potentially infect other animals or
humans. If your pet has consumed the recalled product and has these
symptoms, please contact your veterinarian.
The company stopped production at the Everson facility on July 29,
2008 when it was alerted of a possible link between dry pet food
produced at the plant and two isolated cases of people infected with
Salmonella Schwarzengrund.
Even though no direct link between product produced at Everson and
human or pet illness has been made, Mars Petcare US is taking
precautionary action to protect pets and their owners by announcing a
voluntary recall of all products produced at the Everson facility
beginning February 18, 2008 until July 29, 2008 when we stopped
production.
The company is continuing to work collaboratively with the FDA to
determine the nature and source of Salmonella Schwarzengrund at the
Everson facility. Since it has not yet identified the source of the
Salmonella Schwarzengrund at the Everson facility, Mars Petcare US
does not plan to resume production out of a commitment to the safety
of our pet owners and their pets, customers, and associates.
The top priority of Mars Petcare US has always been and continues to
be the health and welfare of pets and their owners. Consumers can
continue to have confidence in the quality and safety of the products
produced at other Mars Petcare US facilities. Only those products
which were produced at the Everson facility are impacted by the
voluntary recall.
Many of the brands involved in the recall are national brands
produced at multiple facilities. A chart for all products is below.
For example, PEDIGREE® is manufactured in numerous facilities
throughout the country, and Everson represents a very small portion
of the manufacturing base – 2.7 percent of total PEDIGREE® production.
Mars Petcare US will work with retail customers to ensure that the
recalled products are not on store shelves. These products should not
be sold or fed to pets. In the event that consumers believe they have
purchased products affected by this voluntary recall, they should
return the product to the store where they purchased it for a full
refund. Specific product details and other information can be found
at www.petcare.mars.com
Please find recalled pet food UPC information below.
The products listed below are made at our Everson facility on behalf
of a variety of retailers. All code dates, with the exception of
PEDIGREE®, are listed in a similar format as noted below:
Consumers should look for "17" as the first two digits of the second
line. Sample:
Best By Feb 18 09
17 1445 1
For PEDIGREE® the Everson code date format is as follows:
Consumers should look for "PAE" on the bottom line – the sixth,
seventh and eighth digits. Sample:
PEDIGREE ® Small Crunchy Bites
Best Before 02/2009
808G1PAE01 12:00
In an effort to prevent the transmission of Salmonella from pets to
family members and care givers, the FDA recommends that everyone
follow appropriate pet food handling guidelines when feeding their
pets. A list of safe pet food handling tips can be found at:
www.fda.gov/consumer/updates/petfoodtips080307.html
Pet owners who have questions about the recall should call 1-877-568-
4463 or visit www.petcare.mars.com.
Recalled Pet Food
Note: If you see a product you purchased listed below, please review
the code date information samples from above to confirm that your
product is included in the recall.
You hear about them every day. See the signs stapled to telephone poles. Maybe have someone with a frantic look on their face stop you to ask if you've seen a small brown dog with a purple collar. If you're a dog owner, chances are good that this will happen to you at some point in your life. What you do the moment after you discover Buddy is missing will play a huge roll in your ability to get your dog back ASAP.
Here are some tips to help you find your lost dog.
Above all, don't give up. Your pet is out there, somewhere. While not all pets find their way back home, many do. Following the tips above will help insure that you're one of the one's with a happy story to tell. I was one of the lucky one's. My Belgian Tervuren, Barry, got out of our yard one day, and was gone for a month. I posted flyers, placed ads, looked, and looked, and looked for that dog. I spent more time than you can imagine driving to obsure places to look at found dogs who ended up looking nothing like the description of my dog, I looked at dead dog's next to highways and roads, I was almost a fixture at my local shelter. Finally, one day, a nun at St. Joe's hospital looked out a window and saw a dog on an island in the middle of the Huron River. He was still there the next day. So she called the shelter, who called the sheriff's department, who called their marine division (it was March, and most boats were still in storage). They trailered a boat in and took it out to rescue my dog. He was so skinny his collar would go around his neck twice and he had an irregular heartbeat. But he came back to me, and he lived to be 17 years old.
Few things strike fear in a dog lover's heart like the sight of a dog fight. They can be loud, with growling, snarling, snapping of teeth, or they can be eerily quiet, with both dogs completely focused on the "task" at hand. Knowing how to correctly break up a dog fight is another topic. Reading the signs that may lead to a dog fight is what we're discussing today.
Looking at these dogs, what do you think? Is this a fight brewing? The quick answer is no. These two boys are very good friends, neither one engages in resource guarding (aggressively defending food, toys, or other desirable objects or people), and they've never even thought of starting a fight. To an experienced eye, there are actually many subtle clues, such as the lack of facial wrinkling and the fact that the corner's of the mouth on both dogs are pulled back rather than pinched (this is called a "long commisure", dogs looking to fight would have the corners of their mouths pulled forward, a "short commisure"). Here's the uncropped picture:
Once you see the whole picture, you can see these dogs are happily playing.
Every day someone gets bitten breaking up a dog fight. All dogs, no matter what breed or how sweet, have a capacity for aggression given the right circumstances. Looking at the sweet Cavalier I have sitting on my lap as I write this, I wonder what could possibly ever bring out aggression in him, but the possibility is there. Learning to read a little bit of canine body language gives you the ability to "read" your dog, or your dog's companion, and foresee a possible problem, thereby keeping everyone safer.
Barbara Handelman has put together an excellent book and blog regarding just this. The blog is fabulous, with pictures to analyze and then a description of what's really going on. If there's a dog in your life, you owe it to yourself to check it out. It's one of the best you'll find. You can visit at: http://woofandwordpress.com/blog/
In the meantime, here is a list of behaviors put together by Barbara that include a happy dog who'd like closer contact, and one who's looking for a little distance.
Distance decreasing (let's play) behaviors include:
Distance increasing (you're in my space and I'd like you to get back) behaviors include:
There are so many things we do every day to keep our dogs safe and enrich their lives, from heartworm preventative and making sure they are on leash when we go for a walk, to trips to the dog park and playing with them in the backyard. Learning at least a little bit about canine body language is just one more thing you can add to your arsenal!
Recently my daycare dogs were getting a little rambunctious in the yard. Ripping around, barking, generally out of control. I gave a whistle, had everybody come to me, sit, stay for a minute, passed out some small treats, then let them go again. General rowdiness was reduced when they went back to playing, and it was yet one more lesson that when I call, you have to come, no matter what you're doing. The great news, though, is that in a minute, you'll be able to go back to what you were doing! That's why, when I ask, they come to me. Because they just don't know if it's going to be a short break in play (maybe with a little treat), or something else. Odds are in their favor that it'll be a treat, so they comply.
For many reasons, this is an important thing to do with your dog if you choose to take him to a dog park to burn off some of that pent up energy. Think about it. Snoopy's out there playing with the other dogs, having the time of his life. You've been there for an hour, and you want to go home, make dinner, and sit down for some R & R. So you call Snoopy, who acts like he's never heard the word. Finally, you end up chasing Snoopy around the park for half an hour, feeling like an idiot when you snatch for Snoopy and he dances out of your way, maybe enlisting the aid of other dog park "parents", who've been there, done that. Finally you corner Snoopy, snap on the lead, and march him to the car, wondering why you thought coming to the park was ever a good idea in the first place.
Amazingly, this is really a problem that's pretty easy to correct. Before you go to the park, arm yourself with a couple of things: some treats to reward Snoopy for coming when you call, and either an extra special treat, or a kong with some peanut butter in it, for the ride home. When you get to the park, let Snoopy get going, then call him to come. Go to him, if you have to, and cheerfully entice him to come to you. Take hold of his collar (this is important, so he doesn't get into the habit of running up, grabbing the treat, and taking off), and give him the treat, with lots of praise. Then let him go. Do this a couple of times before you finally snap on the lead, tell him what a stellar dog he is, and take him to the car. When you get there - Oh Joy! - there's an extra special tasty treat waiting, a bit of a fair trade to take the edge off of having to leave the greatest dog place on earth!
Do this every time you go to the park, even after Snoopy races to you with a happy look on his face when you call. We want to keep this good behavior, so reward it. It lets him know in no uncertain terms that you are happy with him. That you think he's the greatest dog ever. And, the best part, it makes all the other owner's who are still making fools of themselves chasing after their dog just a little bit jealous of your incredible dog!
It's the best thing you can do for both your puppy and all the people he will interact with for the rest of his life. So many dogs came into the veterinary clinic where I worked who were great dogs... until you had to draw some blood or cut their toenails. Then it would take a couple of people. Maybe a muzzle. Lots of sweating and swearing and eye rolling on the staff's part, and an embarrassed owner.
You don't want that to be you. So handle your puppy. Hold him in your lap, rub and look in his ears, handle his feet, pull gently on his legs. Lift up his lips and check his teeth. Hold him in your arms like a baby. Stand him on a table or the floor, and wrap one arm around his neck and the other underneath him and around his middle (like someone's holding him for the vet to give an examination). If he squirms or mouths or has a tantrum, persist, gently, quietly, and patiently. Keep in mind that he's a baby. He's learning. No discipline is involved here. It's unfair to discipline a dog for behavior he hasn't yet learned. Later, for bratty behavior, that's the time for the sterner voice, a little spark when you make eye contact. Now, it's gentle, firm persistence, until you get an approximation of what you want. You'll come back to it later, and eventually it will be perfected.
He will learn so many things from this. That people can be trusted. That he needs to stand quietly for the vet or groomer. That it's people who rule his world, no matter that he thinks he was born crowned king. Push on his butt. Grab his collar. Pet from head to the end of his tail with long strokes. Grab the end of his tail and pull lightly. Gently pinch and lift the skin on his back and sides (these are tender areas, so you MUST be gentle here). Teach him to walk being led by the scruff of his neck (This doesn't hurt, but it feels weird and bossy so proceed appropriately, it's a very good lesson for him to learn.) Remember that this should be a positive event for your puppy. If you hurt him, you're ruining any progress you've made. So keep it light.
Teaching a dog that humans can touch him anywhere, anytime, is a necessity. It will reduce the likelihood of a bite when a neighbor's kid grabs him around the neck. It will make it easier to draw blood for his heartworm test when he's at the vet. Obedience training will be come more naturally to him, because he's already learned to look to you as the leader. It makes your dog a much better citizen overall. Because a dog accustomed to being handled is much less likely to bite. Once again, it comes down to giving your dog the tools to be safe in his environment. And for the urban dog, that environment contains a multitude of well intentioned but not necessarily dog savvy people. So keep everybody safe. Go hug your puppy.
Separation Anxiety. If I hear those words one more time, I swear, I'm gonna lose my mind. At least once a week someone tells me their dog has separation anxiety. It's become the catchall phrase for unusual, usually destructive behavior when the owner is not present. Generally the people who tell me this are bright and competent, and have raised their dog with love and care. They would go to the ends of the earth to make their dog happy. This does not usually set the stage for separation anxiety. True separation anxiety is a rare occurrence and usually the result of a dog suffering trauma (someone breaks in, a fire, or other extreme situation) while left alone, or coming from a very abusive situation. But it's easy to say, "separation anxiety". It rolls off the tongue, and makes the problem behavior the dog's fault. Excellent. Now you just need someone to fix it, or maybe some pills to pop down your dog every morning.
OK, everybody. Here's what I have to say. Most likely what your dog is really suffering from is terminal boredom (think "Ferris Bueller's Day Off") or maybe, just maybe, isolation anxiety. Dogs are pack animals. They need social interaction as much as we humans do. If your dog spends day after day waiting for you while you're at work, he's lonely. It's fine that you leave your dog and go to work. We all have real lives. But you have to be willing to put in the effort to counteract that when you are home, or find another way to satisfy your dog's need to party a little with others. Whether boredom or isolation anxiety, the fact is, no matter how much you love your dog, these are on you! Sorry, but it's true. Think about your routine. How much exercise is that bright, bubbly, happy dog of yours actually getting? When you picked out that lab, aussie, Jack Russell, or, heaven forbid, border collie, did you really think about how much exercise it would require? Did you think about what your dog was bred to do, what activity would be calling to him right down to his very last cell and wonder if you could find a way to fulfill that need? Because that cushy life your dog is leading, while comfortable, isn't really very fulfilling. Dogs are amazingly like humans in that respect. Sure we love our down time, but we don't want all of our time to be down time. What fun would that be, really? Too many of our very lucky puppies live exactly that life.
If your dog is suffering from what you are sure is separation anxiety, it's time to implement a new schedule to test your theory. A tired dog is a happy dog. For the next couple of weeks, you need to make the effort to make your dog happily tired (which doesn't include hours on a treadmill. What fun is that?). But, lucky you, these days, the options are pretty much endless. If your dog is a sociable type, there are dog parks and daycare. I'd go every other day, at least, for a couple of weeks. If you're going to the dog park, plan on spending at least an hour, and during that time, make sure you are watching your dog. This isn't the time to chat with other dog people, it's the time to make sure your dog is not getting into a bad situation. If you take your dog to daycare try to have him spend the whole day, if you can't, at least go for a half day. Maybe neither of those options work for you and/or your dog.Enroll your little reprobate in a training class. Hire a dog walker. Find a neighborhood kid to stand in the backyard and throw the ball for an hour. Get up an hour earlier (I know, I know. But if I can do it, so can you!) and take your dog for a nice long, brisk walk. Play with him a little. Fill his mind up and go to work leaving him feeling loved. Keep a log of your dog's behavior, if you want, but I bet you'll see an improvement.
So, if your dog pooped right in the middle of the brand new, very expensive, cream colored, imported from Italy duvet when you went to the store, destroyed your clothes or furniture, shredded your shoes, or even jumped out a window, it's probably not separation anxiety. It's probably your dog saying "Thank goodness he's gone, now I can really get some exercise!"
I love this picture of Bruce, taken by his new mom the day after he was adopted into their family. I always wonder what he's thinking. Wishing he was back at the rescue (it was just the next day, after all, he didn't yet know how fabulous his life was to become)? Pondering the world's troubles? Or maybe that the lake is the biggest water bowl he's ever seen!
Whether it's a lake, a river, or, especially, a pool, if your dog is around water, you owe it to him to give him the tools to keep him safe in his environment.
Since pools present the biggest danger, with their smooth sides which can trap an uneducated dog until, exhausted, he's lost to his family, we'll start there.
